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JEWELLERY
TRADITIONAL
Hindu
The AVARNAS were prevented from wearing gold ornaments in
ancient times. They used to wear Kallumala (bead necklace) and
bangles made of brass and other cheap metals.
The Namboothiri men wore plain golden finger rings and elassu
(golden amulet) attached to the waist string. Big ear pendants
or KUNDALAM is worn by the vaidikan (Priest).
The Namboothiri women wore hollow cylinders made of gold and
hanging from the distended lobes like a necklace and called chutty-cheruthali.
These- consisted of a number of gold coins through the eyes of
which a silk cord was passed. Bangles made of gold where worn;
ornaments in the nose or on the head, were also worn.
The Adyan Namboothiri used to wear Kuzhuthila and 'Karumalapattu'.The
Adyam Namboothiri were dis tinguished by the peculiarities in
their form of dressing. They wore silver bangles on the fingers
while others wore only pewter or bell metal bangles. The women
of Nayar, Ambalavasi and other Hindu castes used to wear THODA
or THAKKA in their dilated earlobe. The TODA was a convex disc
made of gold the front surface of which was either plain or set
with rubies. NAGAPATAM or Serpent's hood was the oldest ornament
of the Nayar women. It was called after the shape of a pendant
worn around the neck.
Nalupantiyantram, puthali, avilmala, Kantaaram, arimpumani,
tandumotiram, pulinakham, patakkam, addiyal and pavithramothiram
(Payyannur) come under neck ornaments.The Mookuthi was the
popular nose ornament. The nattukappu was worn on wrists. The 'mothiram'
(ring) was worn on the fingers. ANKLETS were called as PADASARAM
or KOLLUSSU. Round the waist was worn the KACHAPPURAM, a chain
or belt of gold or silver was worn by the children, around the
waist. KETTUMINNU was worn by girls after Thalikettukalyanam (Thali-tying
in marriage ceremony).
KSHATHRIYA women used to wear two forms of ear rings KATHILA or
MANIKATHILA and consisting of golden beads ;PUTTUKATHILA shaped
like a horseshoe in outline and consisting of two halves nailed
together, with the outside presenting a view of closely set
golden knobs of different sizes systematically arranged one of
these two earrings, a waist ornament (aranjanam ) and anklets
are the ornaments worn during the Thali-tying and Puberty or
first menstruation ceremonies. There were two sets of ornaments,
one for daily use and the other for special occasions. Tantran
and Kuzhal were the popular neck ornaments worn by Ambalavasi
women.
In South Travancore, Ezhava women wore PAMPATAM (ear ornaments
of Tamil Sudra women). In north Travancore the earring of Ezhava
women was the 'ATTUKKAM SAMKHU CHAKKARAM' and 'ATTIMINNU' was
the neck ornament. The men of the Nayar, Ambalavasi and some
other -Hindu castes used to wear their earlobes and wore
KADUKKAN.
Christian
women
The traditional CHRISTIAN women wore MEKKAMOTIRAM or Kunuk(heavy
gilt gold ring) on the upper ear lobe. No ornaments for nose.
Some Christians do not use ornaments. They wore a necklace
called Ottezhapatakkom and rings of various kinds for fingers
and anklets.
The traditional Nadar Christian ear ornaments are very different
from other. The women wear necklaces and earrings of elaborate
and considerable weight. The ear rings consist of Studs on the
upper portion of the ear as on the earlobes. MUDICHI, PAMPATAM,
THANDOTE and ARITHALAPPU are the ear ornaments. The traditional
necklace is called the CHITTIRU.
A type of THODA, THAKKA made of wood, lead or brass in the
dilated earlobe is worn by AVARNA women. They also used to wear
OLACHUTTU (scroll of PANDANUS or coconut leaf) in the earlobe. A
bead necklace, Kallumala was the usual ornament for the neck.
Muslim
women
Muslim women have innumerable varieties of ornaments for the
different parts of the body. The ornaments for the
ear are MEKKATH, PACHAKALLU, ALICATH and JIMIKKI. They wear a
number of coiled gold or silver earrings called ALICATH.
To adorn their hair MUDIPOO and MUDICHAKRAM are used-Nettippattam
is worn on the forehead. Different types of PATHAKKAM, ASHTIK
OTTAPATHAKAM, PADIMALA, PAANGOA and CHAKRAKANNIMALA are worn.
They also used a waist belt called ARAPPATTA (of gold or silver
is worn) silver ankle chain are also popular among them.
Tribal
women
The tribal women in the hills used to wear ornaments made of
palm leaves, wood and beads from wild plants to adorn
themselves. The Paniya women wore rolled palm leaves in their
dilated earlobes. The cholanaickam use neck chains of beads from
wild plants and bangles were made of a kind of grass.
The unmarried Mullu Kurumba women wore metal ear studs and a
nose-pin known as PATHA. The married women wore bangles on both
forearms and metal rings on the upper arms-KATHILA were also
worn in the ears after marriage and a chain known as ELACE was
worn round the wrist.
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