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CURRENT TRENDS IN WEDDING ATTIRE

FOR THE BRIDE

Weddings and traditions go together and so, changes in wedding attire tend to filter in gradually. Yet, the seeds of change are evident. If ages ago, the bride walked down the aisle with a shy smile, draped luxuriously in a heavily brocaded Kancheepuram sari, today's bride is a bold woman with a wide range of outfits to choose from that includes custom-tailored wedding collections.

In the bygone days, the only choice that the bride had was regarding the colour of the sari. But today the scenario is different. The present wedding collections include not only saris but also a variety of ghagras, lehengas, gowns and designer outfits. Besides, the youngsters are also very much particular about what they would choose to wear on their wedding day. Today, the bride and the groom know that they have to look their best, what with the photographers and video cameras clicking away,to capture and preserve their every look, expression and mood!

There are beauticians to ensure that the make-up co ordinates with the bridal ensemble. However, it is the “no make-up” look or the natural look that is the current trend these days. Besides, the make-up for the day of the wedding has to go with the sari and the jewellery.

For the other functions before the wedding and for the reception, the brides-to-be are willing to experiment with colour, contemporary hairstyles and designer outfits.However,most of them prefer to play it safe and be conventional on their wedding day. Gold is used mainly as part of the eye make-up, glitter for functions in the evening and also for Christian weddings where the predominant colour is white. If the jewellery comprises diamonds, then silver is the look. The natural look is very much in. For Christian weddings, silver is the colour,while for Hindus, it is the traditional golden look that is in. The make-up for the bride is decided on the basis of the colour of the sari and the jewellery.

The Blouse

The sari blouse is making waves in the fashion circuit and wardrobes of Kerala women The choli or the blouse is back in the news again, and this time for all the right reasons. And it is not a song, but the blouse (that goes with the sari) that is back in a re-invented avatar or rather many avatars.

It is said of fashion that it is cyclical, that nothing really goes out of fashion. Right from the heavily embroidered ones to short puff sleeves to closed neck to backless and even halter necks and bustiers, they are all back. As far as blouses go, all past fashions and some new ones are in vogue all at once. In fact designers and boutique owners take orders for blouses.

New Trends

"I once had an NRI client who came to me directly with a printout of a blouse that she wanted replicated. I assured her that I could do something similar, and I did. There is a renewed interest in the blouse, and the accent is embellishing it with embroidery and so on," says Sheela James of Czarina.

Avers another designer Shanti Ram, "At times what happens is that a sari maybe understated,and then the best way to dress up a sari is with the blouse, do any kind of surface embellishment and it changes the way a sari looks."

At times the best way to resurrect an old sari is by going in for a new blouse. Says Indu Radhakrishan of Studio Mrinalini in the city, "A new blouse dramatically changes the way a sari looks, the treatment makes all the difference. Getting a new blouse for an old sari is almost as good as getting a new sari."

Embroidery

The style and work on the blouses however vary, in fact to a great extent it is the sari that decides the work and the cut of a blouse. For instance, for light silks such as crepes, chiffons and georgettes, the embroidery tends to be light and the blouse makes up for the saris' understated effect. It is not limited to just the sari's blouse, even blouses for set-mundu are heavily embroidered.

As long as the sari and the set-mundu rules the Malayalee woman's wardrobe, the blouse will be in the news.
Says GopikaVarma who designs blouses," The beauty of a heavily embroidered blouse is accentuated when worn with a set-mundu. Set against the simplicity of the set-mundu,an embroidered blouse looks beautiful."

In terms of designs on the blouses, the options are plenty - embroidery, sequins, crystals, kundan stones, zardosi, aari, thread work... the list is endless. The popular fabrics, however, are either light like crepe, georgette, chiffon or cotton silks. Heavier fabrics such as silks or velvets are generally no-no. But there are women who still like brocade blouses. As far as the embroidery goes, it is either tonal to complement the sari or contrast to set off the sari. That is not to say that everyone is as sporty as Mandira Bedi when it comes to blouses or cholis. The trend in Kerala at least leans towards the conservative. "Deep neck blouses are quite popular, but backless? No way. Women in Kerala do not go that far as far as necklines go," says Gopika.

Varied Options

Adds Shalini Joseph of Mantra, "There are some women and NRIs who ask for blouses with halter necks and the backless kind. But on the whole there is a certain amount of inhibition where the blouse is concerned. For instance, a blouse will be sleeveless for all practical purposes, but for some reason, many people want one-and-a-half inch sleeves. The blouse is never sleeveless then, even though the sleeve is there in name only." Shalini does not take individual orders for blouses, they have to be part of the sari-blouse set.

Getting just blouses made is a trend that is catching up, but according to Sudha Suresh of Ashima, "I stock embroidered saris that have similarly embroidered blouses to go with them. If the sari is lightly embroidered then the blouse is heavily embroidered. It is still blouses to match saris, and the trend may get popular, but as of now it appears that the sari decides the blouse."

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